COVER STORY:

Below are selected Oregon wine reviews from this issue
(Cover story available in printed magazine only)

Oregon Pinots Take A Back Seat to No One
The Beaver State chews into France’s Pinot dominance

OREGON PINOT NOIR
Pinot Noir is Burgundy’s red grape. Burgundians used to say no American could ever
make a decent wine from it. The grape is too finicky; it’s too unstable and inconsistent,
they said. Besides, no soil besides French soil could ever beget a great Pinot.
Well, that’s what they used to say, anyway. The grape now dominates Oregon’s more than
12,000 acres of vineyards, and Oregon Pinot regularly competes with — and defeats
— red Burgundies in blind tastings. Though Bourgogne grand crus like Domaine de la
Romanée-Conti still consistently produce the world’s grandest Pinots, Oregon winemakers
have all but closed the gap.

Our panelists were mostly impressed with what they found from Oregon, as they
tasted 47 of the state’s Pinot Noirs ranging in price from $10 to $60. Almost without
exception, the tasters found quality at every price level. And while the prices were somewhat
steep for many of the wines, the scorers seemed to respect the limited quantities
and commitment to quality represented in these wines by doling out a number of
“ above-average value” and “exceptional value” designations. When you remember that
a bottle of DRC will set you back several hundred dollars — if you can find one — it
becomes apparent that our tasters have the right idea.

— Steve Stevens

EDITOR'S NOTE: Of the nearly 50 current vintage Oregon Pinot Noirs, our panelists found 20 wines that scored 90+ points from the 2002 and 2003 Vintage — Hats off to these top scorers!

2002 Amity Vineyards, Schouten, Pinot Noir
(Willamette Vly)
Summary: Dark ruby in appearance, this seemingly light-bodied temptress knew what it was doing when it displayed blackberry and cherry aromas kissed with vanilla, smoke and spice. The panel was completely seduced by the nose and then succumbed to mouth-filling flavors of blackberries and vanilla. Figs and tannins showed up to further tease the tongue on the finish, which proved to be long and pleasurably lingering, leaving tasters clamoring for an encore performance.
Food Friendliness: What are you in the mood for? This baby would welcome the opportunity to tame a rare rib-eye, but it would be just as eager to please the palate if accompanied by a cheese plate, burger or pork ribs with a sweet glaze.
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2002 King Estate Winery Pinot Noir (Oregon)
Summary: Deep in its blood-red appearance, this seductive offering wowed the panel with sultry aromas of smoke, spice, ripe cherry and earth-like musk. Silky and exotic with attractive tannins, it proved to be more than a mouthful with its generous flavors of balsamic strawberries and cream enveloped in satin, smoke and Asian spice. Eliciting a cheer of “Bravo!” from one panelist, this beauty kept its composure all the way to the end, climaxing into a “celebratory finish” of tannins, toasted wood and fruit.
Food Friendliness: No paltry leftovers for this class act! Put on the Ritz with veal scallopini or duck with red fruit chutney, or serve as a starter with pâté and Camembert.
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2002 Domaine Drouhin, Laurène, Pinot Noir (Oregon)
Summary: This medium- to full-bodied wine greeted the panel in a regal robe of ruby-purple and presented intense aromas of cherries, cassis, leather, strawberries and spice. It reigned supreme in the mouth, blanketing the entire domain with ripe red and black fruit, a veil of smoke and smooth tannins. All flavors of the court seemed to go the distance, as this wine successfully governed a good balance of fruit, tannin and acid to the end.
Food Friendliness: No less than a feast fit for a king is worthy of this wine. Succulent, slow-roasted pig or beef braised in red wine and served with wild mushrooms and lentils would be lovely.
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2002 Domaine Serene, Evenstad Reserve, Pinot Noir (Willamette Vly.)
Summary: Inviting in its ruby-purple appearance, this opulent offering exuded floral and feminine aromas of mint, thyme and strawberries. Tasters were entranced by this wine’s elegant and smooth flavors of cherry and blackberry. The wine was balanced with measured amounts of tannins and alcohol that hung on to the end.
Food Friendliness: Steak with a creamy peppercorn sauce or game birds adorned with sautéed shiitakes would be lovely companions for this wine.
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2003 Van Duzer Vineyards Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, Ore.)
Summary: Wow! A deep extraction of ruby-purple coated the glass as frisky aromas of cherry, strawberry preserves, rose petals, anise and figs all tried to jump out of it at once with colt-like glee. Mouth-filling flavors of red fruit, plum, molasses and cinnamon were supported by silky tannins as this able youngster continued all the way down the stretch with a lengthy finale of cherries, grapes and tannins.
Food Friendliness: Satisfy one brazen beast with another! A panelist suggested “anything meaty and rugged” to give this winner a run for its money.
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